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Dairy on the Prairie 5

   During the 1950s, farmers were increasingly switch-    lunch programs and overseas relief                           Butter making, ca. 1900. Courtesy of State Historical
ing from the farm-separated cream system to selling       agencies.16                                               Society ofIowa, Iowa City, Irving B. Weber collection.
whole milk to processing plants. Skim milk was no
longer being fed to the farmer's livestock. Since dair-      The number of creameries in                            in cheese production.18
ying was no longer tied to other aspects of the farm-     Iowa had fallen from about 500 be-                           This trend continued in the 1970s, encouraged by
er's operation, it became more of a specialty.            fore World War II to 240 in 1960.
Particularly in northeast Iowa, where the topography      After 1960, the number of creamer-                        rising cheese prices, with more and more plants tran-
was especially suited to dairying, many such opera-       ies continued to decline steadily. Of                     sitioning to cheese production. In 1960, there were 45
tions were expanded, while other regions focused          the approximately 200 remaining in                        plants producing cheese, up from 13 in 1930. By 1995,
more on hog production or raising one or two crops,       the mid-1960s, about 30 were large                        68% of the milk from Iowa's dairy farms was being
reflecting the larger trend away from mixed crop and      processing plants equipped with                           processed into cheese. Eleven large-volume plants
livestock farming seen earlier in the century.13          both driers and separators, which                         were producing various cured cheeses including ched-
                                                          were responsible for over half the                        dar, Colby, blue, mozzarella, Swiss, Havarti, Neufcha-
   Although the state's milk production was still at      state's butter production. Nearly a                       tel and cream cheeses. At that time Iowa ranked fifth
WWII levels, as was the amount of butter being man-       third of Iowa's butter was being                          nationally in American cheese manufacturing and
ufactured, the way that milk was marketed and pro-        manufactured in the state's 50 me-                        sixth overall in cured cheese production.19
cessed had changed significantly. In the 1940s about      dium-sized plants, with the remain-
80% of the state's dairy output left the farm as cream    ing 20% being produced in the 100                            The Iowa dairy industry of today looks very dif-
and about 20% as whole milk. By the 1960s, these fig-     small creameries still in operation. In                   ferent from the 1960s. Both consolidation and compe-
ures had reversed.14                                      Iowa, where the creamery system                           tition have drastically reduced the number of cows,
                                                          had originated, and where it had                          dairy farms, and processing plants. The decline is
   Creameries found they needed to handle large vol-      played an important role in the farm economy, more        partly due to consolidation. The average size of each
umes of milk in order to operate at a profit. Machin-     butter was still being made in Iowa from farm-sepa-       operation has increased in that time, with the aver-
ery such as large industrial separators or milk-drying    rated cream than in any other state. By 1980 there were
machines was expensive, and the cost of moderniz-         only seven creameries still producing butter left in the
ing could not be offset by handling low volumes of        state. By 1995, there was one creamery still produc-
milk. At whole milk creameries, milk was piped from       ing butter on a periodic basis, located in a business
the bulk storage tanks into large separators capable of   called Potter's Siding in Tripoli, Bremer County. This
separating 5,000 gallons of milk an hour. Such cream-     facility stopped making butter around 2000.17
eries needed to make about three million pounds of
butter a year in order to be profitable. After the cream      Another emerging trend in Iowa's dairy industry
was processed into butter, the remaining skim milk,       in the 1960s, which contributed to the decline of
once fed to farmers' hogs, was sold to plants equipped    creameries, was the sudden growth of cured cheese
with dryers.15                                            manufacturing. In making the switch to handling
                                                          whole milk, many low-volume plants found convert-
   Drying was becoming increasingly common among          ing to cheese processing to be less expensive than be-
processors by the 1960s. In 1964, over 200 millions       coming a combination creamery and drying facility.
pounds of nonfat dry milk were produced in Iowa,          While it takes over 20 pounds of milk to make one
compared with less than 20 million pounds in 1952.        pound of butter, only 10 pounds of milk is required
There had developed by this time a large market na-       to produce a single pound of cheese. In 1950, Iowa
tionally for dried milk, which was sold to the pro-       plants were producing around 10 million pounds of
cessed food industry for use in baked goods and           cheddar cheese, and by 1964 five times this amount
instant foods. About half the dried milk sold was pur-    was being made, placing the state fourth nationwide
chased by the government and went into national
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