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10 Dairy on the Prairie

                                      Curtis' factory churn.35  mercial sphere open primarily only to men. Surplus                          CHEESE-MAKING
                                                                poultry and egg production became one of the few
farmers suspected they were not receiving prime dol-            remaining financial contributions that rural women        Cheese-making, whether on a large or small scale,
lar for their milk: there were many accusations flung           were recognized for. Although women's roles in the     was an exacting process. Making cheese required
between patrons and factory operators about milk                spheres of gardening for home consumption, house-      hours of precise monitoring of temperatures during
payments. Early patrons were paid according to how              hold chores, and child rearing were life sustaining,   heating. After the cheeses were made, they had to be
many pounds of milk they delivered to the factory.              the effects of those aspects of "women's work" on the  turned and greased with whey butter. If even one step
Although the milk could be rejected if it was com-              financial status of the farmstead were not so easily   was done improperly, the cheese would be inedible.
pletely spoiled, all farmers were paid the same amount          measured as butter income.                             Bad flavor in cheese was believed to be the result of a
per pound of milk, whether their cow's milk had a                                                                      variety of factors, including unclean milk; cows un-
high or low fat content. High fat percentage was most            t HE ACTUAL "RECIPES" FOR CHEESE                      der stresses such as abuse, drought or a poor diet; in-
desirable, as it produced the most butter per pound                                   OF HOME MANUFACTURE WERE VERY    sufficient heating; overheating; not enough salt; too
weight. The factory operator could measure the                                        SIMPLE, SUCH AS DELAWARE COUNTY  much salt; or putting the curds to press when too
amount of cream in a milk sample as compared to the                      RESIDENT EMILY GILLESPIE'S 1867 RECIPE:       warm.37
other patrons milk (a comparative test), but many
farmers grumbled—and rightly so—that these mea-                           . . . milk warm, put in rennet enough           Early factory cheese-making followed the same
sures were not accurate. An accurate and quick test,                      to bring to a curd, then whey off till       recipes as home production. The basic steps in cheese-
the Babcock centrifugal test, was not introduced until                    dry by cutting up or breaking & stir-        making were heating the milk, adding the coagulant,
1890.                                                                     ring the curd occasionally, then salt &      setting the curd, cutting the curd, heating it, draining
                                                                          put in press for a couple of hours; turn     and salting the curd, and finally, pressing it into a sin-
   The Factory System also eliminated rural women                         & put in press 3 or 4 hours, turn again      gle mass of cheese and allowing it to age, usually for
from being primary participants in the dairy trade.                       & leave in press till time to put in an-     30 to 45 days. Instead of a home cooking stove and
Some farm women continued to churn for home con-                          other cheese (say about 24 hrs in press      small pans, commercial equipment took a grander
sumption, but most dairy farmers sold their milk or                       in all); then take out & grease in hot       scale to process larger and larger batches of milk into
cream to the factories, either retaining a small amount                   melted butter with red pepper in.            cheese.
for home churning or purchasing butter from mer-                          change cloths every time the cheese is
chants. Thus, farming and dairying became a com-                          turned so as to have a dry one. Keep            Illustration of the interior of a cheese factory curing
                                                                          in an airy place & turn & grease every       house.38
                                                                          day till cured.36
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